From Cosmetic Science Magazine
Tim Meadows on:
How to ensure you're getting the right quality of Aloe Vera
You manufacture and/or market products that contain Aloe Vera, and you also
purchase the raw ingredient in concentrate, powder or single strength
form. Your formulations contain a level of Aloe that is efficacious
so you can have a quality product. But how can you be sure that
the material you are purchasing is (a) pure and (b) effective?
There is probably no other industry in the world quite like the aloe industry.
There are no official standards for purity or quality. The FDA has
authority only when it comes to the labeling and even then, the definition
of what is pure aloe is totally up to the
manufacturer/ marketer. Although many products do contain
the amount claimed, many more only contain a minute percentage
for label claims, but still call themselves "aloe based"
products. And even if a manufacturer has the highest principles,
how are they to know if they are getting good quality aloe from
their supplier?
Over the years, there have been many attempts by trade organizations and aloe
suppliers to develop an analytical test that can verify an aloe product's
purity.
The search for a chemical marker in the raw material is
the easiest and most popular direction, but it has several pitfalls.
First, we are assuming that the identifying chemical in question is unique
to aloe. Second, we are assuming that no other chemicals or group
of chemicals would be identified the same way. Most importantly,
does this chemical have any relevance to the aloe's biological efficacy?
Also most of the analysis suggested is beyond the financial
or technical abilities of small to medium sized companies. To date
there is no reliable method of analyzing aloe in the laboratory to determine
purity and activity.
With this in mind, a non-governmental trade organization was formed by some
of the aloe raw material companies. The International Aloe
Science Council (IASC) was set up to give a certification to aloe suppliers
so that the finished product manufacturers who purchased the aloe could
be given assurance that the product would be pure and efficacious.
The certification is based on a combination of chemical tests and
audits. Chemical test are only partially reliable, and tell
us nothing of the aloe's activity. An audit would seem to
be the best way to determine whether a company is supplying pure
aloe. However, the IASC audit consists only of verifying the
harvesting and processing conditions. Verifying the simple
existence of a field and a processing plant is no guarantee that
what is being sold is pure aloe.
After more than 20 years in the aloe vera industry, both as a supplier and a
user, I am convinced that there is only one way a person can feel confident
that they are receiving pure aloe and that is by conducting a material
audit. By this I mean tracing the path of actual solids from the
harvest through the processing plant and out the door. It should
be a simple task to match up the amount of aloe solids harvested as a
gel to the amount of aloe sold by the supplier. The method would
be the same as with an IRS audit where you must match up your spending
with your reported income. This procedure could also be used at
the finished product stage.
This may sound too simple, but most of us would be very surprised
at the results. We would often find no correlation between
the amount of aloe solids harvested and the finished raw material
sold. With this method one could be sure that the aloe supplier
has harvested aloe from an actual field and that the amount of aloe
harvested correlates to the amount of aloe sold. For companies
that simply repack aloe, the audit would extend back to their supplier
as well. The companies finances would remain confidential
because all the auditor would be concerned with is the path of aloe
solids. This procedure has an advantage over a spot inspection
in that it looks at the company's performance as a whole.
The other important point is the quality of the aloe. Since the properties
that are from the aloe are biological, how do we assess its activity relative
to the freshly cut plant which we know is active and beneficial?
Nobody has the answer to this question, but what I look for is the way
in which the aloe is harvested and processed.
As with most natural materials we are not sure which compounds or combinations
of compounds are responsible for aloe's performance. It seems logical
that the less processing the better. Again, we are back to an actual
audit or inspection of the aloe processor and farms.
An audit and/or inspection of every potential aloe supplier might be impractical,
but an audit system such as described could be used to certify suppliers
and assure them that the product is pure and can be accounted for from
field to drum.